I Turned a Shoe Organizer into a $1000 Resistor and Capacitor Library

I Turned a Shoe Organizer into a $1000 Resistor and Capacitor Library

The Vertical Parts Wall

My collection of tiny electronic components—resistors, capacitors, diodes—was a chaotic mess in a dozen little bags. I went to a dollar store and bought a clear, over-the-door shoe organizer for ten dollars. Each of the 24 pockets became a home for a different component value. I printed labels for each pocket (e.g., “1k Ohm Resistors,” “10uF Capacitors”). Now, my entire component library hangs on the back of my workshop door. It’s a massive, easy-to-scan, and incredibly organized system that keeps hundreds of dollars’ worth of parts perfectly accessible.

The “Digital Twin”: How I Use a Free App to Track Every Single Part I Own

The Searchable Hoard

My parts collection grew so large I couldn’t remember what I had. I would buy a part only to find I already had three of them. I created a “digital twin” of my hoard using a free database app called Airtable. Every time I get a new part, I spend 30 seconds entering it into the database with its name, quantity, and a note about which physical bin it’s in. Now, before I buy anything, I can quickly search my own digital inventory from my phone. It has saved me hundreds of dollars and countless hours of searching.

My “Harvest Before You Buy” Rule That Saves Me Hundreds of Dollars a Year

Shopping in My Own Junkyard First

I have a strict rule in my workshop: before I buy any common component online, I must first spend at least 15 minutes looking for it in my “harvest” pile. This is a collection of old, dead circuit boards from printers, TVs, and other junk. Need a specific fuse, a common transistor, or a small heatsink? Chances are, I can find one on an old board and salvage it for free. This simple rule forces me to be resourceful and has saved me an incredible amount of money on parts and shipping fees.

The Ultimate Guide to Labeling Tiny Surface-Mount Components

The Microscopic Organization System

I have hundreds of tiny, surface-mount (SMD) components that are almost impossible to read. To keep them organized, I use small, resealable anti-static bags. I buy them in bulk for cheap. I write the component’s value (e.g., “10k 0805 Resistor”) on the bag’s white label block with an ultra-fine point permanent marker. I then file these tiny bags in a plastic trading card binder or a small photo album. This keeps them organized, protected from static, and easy to identify without needing a microscope every time I need a part.

I Built a “Parts-Pulling” Station from a Discarded Filing Cabinet

The Ultimate Component Armory

My local university was throwing out an old, multi-drawer metal filing cabinet. I took it, cleaned it up, and bought a few dozen plastic drawer dividers. This cabinet is now my dedicated “parts-pulling” station. Each drawer is labeled for a different category: “Power Supplies,” “Fans,” “Speakers,” “Motors.” When I need a part for a project, I can go to the cabinet, pull out the right drawer, and quickly find what I need. It turned a chaotic pile of salvaged parts into a highly organized and functional library.

The “Tackle Box” Method: The Best $20 I Ever Spent on Organization

The Fisherman’s Solution to Tiny Parts

For years, I kept my screws, nuts, and small electronic components in a jumble of old baby food jars. It was a mess. I went to a sporting goods store and bought a large, plastic fishing tackle box for $20. The kind with dozens of small, adjustable compartments. It was a game-changer. I now have dedicated, labeled compartments for all my different screw sizes, for my resistors, for my LEDs. It’s a cheap, portable, and incredibly efficient way to bring order to the chaos of small parts.

How to Test and Sort a “Bucket of Random Transistors” You Bought Online

The Transistor Triage

I love buying big, cheap bags of “assorted, untested” transistors from eBay. It’s a gamble. To sort them, I use a cheap, amazing tool called a “component tester” or “transistor tester.” It’s a small, $15 device. You just plug the three legs of the transistor into its socket and press a button. It instantly identifies the type of transistor (NPN, PNP, MOSFET), tells you the pinout, and gives you its key electrical characteristics. This little gadget turns a bucket of mystery parts into a neatly sorted and valuable collection.

The “Known Good” Box: Your Secret Weapon for Fast Diagnostics

The Control Group for Your Repairs

On my workbench, I have a small box labeled “Known Good Parts.” It contains a power supply, a hard drive with a clean OS install, a stick of RAM, and a graphics card that I know, for a fact, are all in perfect working order. When a customer brings me a dead PC, before I start complex troubleshooting, I swap in my “known good” parts one by one. If the PC suddenly boots after I swap the RAM, I’ve found the problem in 30 seconds. This box is the single most effective tool for fast and accurate diagnostics.

Why You Should Never Throw Away an “Old” Power Supply (Even a Dead One)

The Treasure Within the Brick

I never throw away an old power supply, whether it’s from a PC or a laptop charger. If it’s working, it’s a valuable benchtop power source for projects. If it’s dead, it’s a goldmine of high-quality components. Inside, you’ll find large, high-voltage capacitors, beefy rectifiers, heatsinks, and often a quiet cooling fan. I have a whole drawer of parts I have harvested exclusively from dead power supplies. These components are expensive to buy new, but you can get them for free from “e-waste.”

My System for Organizing Thousands of Salvaged Screws

Bringing Order to the Tiny Metal Horde

I salvage every single screw from every device I take apart. To organize them, I use a multi-drawer parts cabinet, the kind used for nuts and bolts. But I don’t sort by size. I sort by origin. I have a drawer labeled “Laptop Screws,” another for “Desktop PC Screws,” and another for “Consumer Electronics.” Within each drawer, the screws are in small bags labeled with their specific source (e.g., “HP Pavilion Hinge Screws”). This way, when I need a specific, weird screw for a laptop repair, I know exactly where to look.

The “Project Box” Method: How I Keep All the Parts for One Repair Together

The Repair in a Box

When I’m working on a complex repair that might take several days, I use the “project box” method. I take a simple plastic shoebox and put the disassembled device, all of its screws (in a magnetic tray), and any new replacement parts inside. I then label the box with the customer’s name and the issue. This keeps everything for one specific job contained and organized. It prevents me from losing a tiny, critical part and allows me to have multiple projects on the go without getting them mixed up.

How to Store Ribbon Cables Without Damaging Them

The Flat-File Solution

Delicate, paper-thin ribbon cables from laptops and phones are notoriously fragile and easy to crease or tear. I used to just throw them in a bag, where they would get damaged. My new system is to use a trading card binder. I have a binder with those clear, 9-pocket plastic sheets. I can slide each salvaged ribbon cable into its own pocket. This keeps them perfectly flat, organized, protected from damage, and makes it easy for me to flip through and find the exact cable I need.

I Used a Photo Album to Organize My Collection of Obscure IC Chips

The Integrated Circuit Index

I have a collection of hundreds of different integrated circuit (IC) chips that I’ve salvaged over the years. To keep them organized, I use an old photo album with the “sticky” pages and the clear plastic film. I arrange the chips on the page by type (e.g., logic chips, op-amps) and write the part number next to each one. The sticky page holds them in place, and the clear film protects their delicate pins from getting bent. It’s a cheap and surprisingly effective way to create a visual catalog of my chip collection.

The “Anti-Static” Storage Solutions That Will Save Your Components from You

Protecting Your Parts from the Invisible Killer

Static electricity can instantly destroy sensitive components like RAM or processors. I store all my vulnerable parts in special anti-static bags. These are the silvery or pinkish bags that new parts come in. I save every single one. For smaller chips, I press their pins into a piece of black, conductive anti-static foam. These simple, often free, storage solutions protect my valuable inventory from an invisible threat and ensure that a part I’ve stored for a year will still work when I need it.

How to Create a “Lending Library” of Parts with Your Repair Friends

The Community Component Cache

I’m part of a small group of local repair hobbyists. None of us can afford to stock every single part. We created a shared “lending library” using a simple online spreadsheet. We each list the unique or expensive spare parts we have in our collection. If I need a specific chip for a one-off repair, I can check the spreadsheet and see if my friend across town has one I can borrow. This collaborative approach gives us all access to a massive, shared inventory without the individual cost.

The “Scrap” PCB Board: Your Practice Sheet and Donor for Common Parts

The Cadaver for Your Craft

I have a large box in my workshop labeled “Scrap PCBs.” These are dead, worthless motherboards and circuit boards. They serve two purposes. First, they are my practice dummies. If I want to try a new soldering technique, I practice on a scrap board first, not on a valuable device. Second, they are a free parts store. If I need a common, generic component like a USB port, a capacitor, or an audio jack for a repair, I can almost always find a perfect donor on one of these scrap boards.

When to “Hoard” and When to “Purge”: The Philosophy of a Parts Collector

The Fine Line Between a Library and a Landfill

My parts collection is governed by a simple philosophy. I hoard things that are generic, reusable, and small: screws, common resistors, capacitors, fans, and heatsinks. These are the building blocks of all electronics. I purge things that are highly specific and large: cracked plastic case parts from an obscure device, dead motherboards for a model I’ll never see again, and any component that is cosmetically damaged. This prevents my workshop from turning into a junk pile and ensures my collection remains valuable and useful.

I Use a Coin Collector’s Binder for Storing CPU and Memory Chips

The Precious Metals Album

Old CPUs and laptop RAM modules are delicate, with hundreds of fragile pins or contacts. To store them safely and keep them organized, I use a binder designed for coin collectors. The binder has clear plastic pages with small, individual pockets. Each pocket is the perfect size to hold a single CPU or a stick of RAM. It keeps them from getting scratched, prevents the pins from bending, and allows me to easily flip through my collection to find the specific processor or memory module I’m looking for.

The “First In, First Out” (FIFO) System for Components with a Shelf Life (Like Capacitors)

Using Your Parts Before They Expire

Even new electronic components have a shelf life. Electrolytic capacitors, for example, can slowly degrade over several years, even when unused. To manage this, I use a simple “First In, First Out” (FIFO) system. When I get new capacitors, I put them at the back of the drawer. When I need a capacitor for a repair, I always take one from the front of the drawer. This ensures that I am always using my oldest stock first, long before the components have a chance to degrade on my shelf.

How to Identify an Unknown Component with Your Smartphone Camera

The Visual Search Engine for Electronics

I often salvage a component from a board but the part number is tiny or obscured. My secret weapon is the Google Lens app on my phone. I can take a clear, close-up photo of the component. The app’s visual search is surprisingly powerful. It can often identify the component based on its shape, color, and any visible markings. It will then provide links to datasheets and suppliers. It’s an incredible tool for identifying mystery parts in your hoard.

The “Bare Minimum” Parts Kit Every Hobbyist Should Have on Hand

The Starter Pack for Any Project

If you’re just starting out, you don’t need a massive hoard. I recommend a “bare minimum” kit. Get a variety pack of common resistors and ceramic capacitors. Buy a small assortment of different colored 5mm LEDs. Have a few common transistors, like the 2N2222, on hand. And finally, have a small collection of basic tactile switches and buttons. With just these few, cheap categories of components, you’ll be able to build and repair a huge variety of simple electronic projects.

I Built Custom, 3D-Printed Bins for My Specific Parts Drawers

The Perfectly Organized Drawer

The drawers in my parts cabinet were a jumble of different-sized bags. I took my organization to the next level. I carefully measured the inside of one of the drawers. I then used a free 3D modeling program to design a custom-fit insert with a dozen small, individual bins. I sent the file to my local library’s 3D printer. The printed insert fits into the drawer perfectly, giving me a neat, tidy, and perfectly optimized storage system for my most-used components.

The “Cable Wall”: How I Organized a Mess of a Thousand Cables

The Cure for the Cable Rat’s Nest

I used to have a massive, tangled box of random cables that was a nightmare to search through. I solved the problem with a simple pegboard and a bag of hooks. I mounted the pegboard to the wall in my workshop. I then carefully coiled and hung every single cable on its own hook. I have sections for USB cables, HDMI cables, power cords, and audio cables. Now, my entire cable collection is visible at a glance, untangled, and easily accessible.

How to Create a “Datasheet” Library for All Your Key Components

The Instruction Manuals for Your Parts

For every important integrated circuit or transistor in my collection, I download its “datasheet.” The datasheet is the official engineering document that tells you everything about that part: its pinout, its voltage limits, its performance characteristics. I save all these PDF files in a well-organized folder on my computer, named by the part number. This digital library is an invaluable resource that I can quickly reference during a repair or a new project build, ensuring I am using the component correctly.

The “Wall of Shame”: A Collection of My Most Spectacularly Fried Parts

The Museum of My Mistakes

On a shelf in my workshop, I have a “Wall of Shame.” It’s a collection of the components I have destroyed through my own mistakes. There’s a CPU with a cracked die from a failed de-lidding attempt. There’s a motherboard with a drill hole through it. There’s a capacitor that exploded and looks like a tiny, peeled banana. It’s a humorous and humbling reminder of the lessons I’ve learned the hard way. It keeps me from getting arrogant and reminds me to always double-check my work.

How to De-Solder Components for Salvage Without Overheating Them

The Gentle Harvest

When I’m salvaging a component from a scrap board, my goal is to remove it without damaging it with too much heat. My favorite tool for this is a hot air rework station. I use a special nozzle to focus the hot air directly on the component’s solder joints. This heats all the pins simultaneously. Once the solder melts, I can simply lift the component off the board with a pair of tweezers. This method is much faster and gentler than trying to heat each pin one by one with a soldering iron.

The “Value” of a Dead Motherboard is in Its Ports and Sockets

The Organ Donor

A dead motherboard is not worthless. I see it as an organ donor. I use my hot air station to harvest the valuable, and often hard-to-find, components from it. I salvage the USB ports, the HDMI port, the audio jacks, and even the CPU socket itself. These are high-quality, original parts that can be used to repair another, more valuable board. The rest of the dead board gets recycled, but its most useful parts live on to save another device.

I Used a Spice Rack to Organize My Small Pots of Solder Paste and Flux

The Culinary Approach to a Clean Bench

I have a collection of small, round jars containing different types of solder paste, flux, and other repair chemicals. They were always cluttering my workbench. I bought a cheap, spinning spice rack from a thrift store. Each little jar fits perfectly into the slots for the spice bottles. Now, my chemical supplies are neatly organized, easy to access with a simple spin, and take up a much smaller footprint on my crowded workbench.

How to Safely Store and Handle Li-Po Batteries

Respecting the Spicy Pillows

Lithium-Polymer (Li-Po) batteries, the kind found in phones and drones, can be dangerous if mishandled. I store all my salvaged Li-Po batteries in a special, fire-resistant “LiPo safety bag.” I never store them fully charged or fully depleted; about 50% charge is the safest for long-term storage. Most importantly, if I ever see a battery that is “puffy” or swollen, I treat it as a serious fire hazard. I immediately take it to a proper battery recycling facility and do not attempt to use or charge it.

The “Cross-Reference” Guide: Finding Modern Equivalents for Obsolete Parts

The Rosetta Stone for Old Electronics

I was repairing a vintage amplifier from the 1970s, and a specific transistor had failed. That part hadn’t been made in 40 years. The key to the repair was a “cross-reference” guide. I used an online database where I could type in the old, obsolete part number. The database then gave me a list of modern, still-in-production transistors that have the same electrical characteristics and can be used as a direct replacement. This ability to find modern equivalents is an essential skill for any vintage repair technician.

I Turned My Parts Hoard into a “Subscription Box” for Beginner Tinkerers

The Curated Box of Creative Junk

My parts hoard got so big that I decided to turn it into a small side business. I created a “Tinkerer’s Subscription Box.” Every month, I curate a small box of interesting, salvaged components from my collection—a few motors, some weird switches, a handful of LEDs, and a mystery circuit board. I sell it to beginner electronics hobbyists. It gives them a fun, unpredictable collection of parts to experiment with, and it helps me to profitably cycle through my massive inventory.

The “Is it Worth Keeping?” Flowchart for Scavenged Parts

The Hoarder’s Decision Tree

To control my hoarding instincts, I have a mental flowchart for every scavenged part. Is it a common, reusable component like a screw or a resistor? -> Keep it. Is it a rare or high-value part, like a specific IC? -> Keep it. Is it a large, bulky item that serves only one specific, obsolete purpose? -> Recycle it. Is it cosmetically damaged or physically broken? -> Harvest it for sub-components, then recycle the rest. This simple decision tree keeps my collection valuable and manageable.

How to Protect Your Parts from Humidity and Corrosion

The Enemy is Moisture

I live in a humid climate, and moisture is the enemy of my parts collection. It can cause the delicate metal legs of my components to corrode over time. My solution is simple and cheap. I store all my sensitive components in airtight plastic containers. Inside each container, I throw in a few rechargeable desiccant canisters. These canisters are filled with silica gel beads that absorb moisture from the air. Once a month, I “recharge” them by baking them in the oven, driving out the collected moisture.

The “Test Jig” I Built to Quickly Check Rescued Power Switches and Jacks

The Quality Control Station

I salvage a lot of power switches, charging jacks, and other common hardware from old devices. Before I put them in my inventory, I need to know if they’re any good. I built a simple test jig. It’s a small box with a battery, an LED, and a set of alligator clips. I can quickly connect a salvaged switch or jack to the jig. If the LED lights up when I flip the switch, I know the part is good and it goes into the “good” bin. This quick test saves me from future troubleshooting headaches.

Why I Keep a “Junk Drawer” of Weird Mechanical Parts (Springs, Gears, Levers)

The Mechanical Boneyard

In addition to my organized electronic components, I have one chaotic “junk drawer.” It’s filled with all the weird mechanical bits I salvage: springs of all sizes, small plastic gears, strange levers, and tiny metal brackets. 99% of the time, it’s just a mess. But that 1% of the time when I need a specific, tiny spring to fix a button, or a small gear to repair a toy, that junk drawer becomes an absolute treasure chest. It’s my library of pure mechanical potential.

The “Bulk Buy” from China: Was It Worth It?

The Slow Boat Gamble

I needed a hundred of a specific type of transistor for a project. Buying them locally would have been expensive. I found a seller on AliExpress in China selling a bag of 100 for a ridiculously low price of five dollars, with free shipping. I knew it was a gamble. I placed the order and waited six long weeks. When the parts finally arrived, I tested a few. They were cheap, probably counterfeit, and their performance was inconsistent. I learned that for critical components, the “slow boat” gamble is often not worth the savings.

How to Organize Your Digital Hoard of Schematics, Manuals, and Firmware

The Library of Alexandria on My Hard Drive

My physical parts hoard is matched by my digital one. I have collected thousands of schematics, service manuals, and firmware files. To keep it organized, I use a simple but rigid folder structure. The top-level folders are by category (“Laptops,” “Audio Gear”). The next level is by brand (“Dell,” “Marantz”). The next is by model number. This disciplined file structure means I can find the exact schematic I need in about 15 seconds, which is crucial in the middle of a complex repair.

I Used an Old Pill Organizer for My SMD Components

The Monday-to-Sunday Resistor Holder

I needed a way to organize the tiny, surface-mount (SMD) components for a specific project I was working on. The perfect solution was a cheap, plastic, seven-day pill organizer from the pharmacy. Each day’s compartment is a small, closable bin. I put my 10k resistors in “Monday,” my 1uF capacitors in “Tuesday,” and so on. It’s a fantastic, cheap, and portable way to keep all the microscopic parts for a single project organized and prevent them from getting lost on my workbench.

The “Weight” Method for Quickly Counting Large Quantities of Small Parts

The Scale That Counts

I bought a bag that was supposed to contain 1,000 of a specific small screw. I didn’t want to count them by hand. I used my digital kitchen scale. First, I carefully counted out exactly 100 screws and weighed them. Let’s say they weighed 50 grams. I then weighed the entire bag of screws, which weighed 480 grams. A simple bit of math told me I had approximately 960 screws, not the 1,000 I had paid for. It’s a fast and surprisingly accurate way to count large quantities of small, identical parts.

My “Most Prized” Component and the Story of How I Found It

The Chip of Legends

My most prized possession in my parts collection is a single, unassuming audio op-amp chip: the NE5532. It’s not rare or expensive. But it was the first component I ever successfully de-soldered from a scrap board and used to fix a “dead channel” on my first vintage amplifier. That chip represents the moment I went from just a tinkerer to someone who could actually diagnose and perform a component-level repair. It’s a small, black piece of plastic, but to me, it’s a symbol of a whole new world of capability opening up.

The “What’s in the Box?” Game: Identifying a Mystery Lot of Parts

The Antiques Roadshow of Electronics

One of my favorite things to do is to buy a big, mystery “box lot” of assorted electronic components from an old engineer’s estate sale. It’s like a treasure hunt. I’ll dump the whole box out on my bench and spend an evening identifying everything. I’ll use my component tester, my magnifying glass, and my phone to identify the strange, obsolete, and wonderful parts inside. It’s a game of “What’s in the box?” that is both educational and occasionally, very profitable.

How to Create a “Hot List” of Parts You’re Always Running Out Of

The Shopping List That Writes Itself

I have a small magnetic whiteboard on the side of my parts cabinet. This is my “Hot List.” Whenever I use the last of a common component—like a specific fuse, a type of transistor, or a size of screw—I immediately write it down on the Hot List. Then, once a month, when I’m placing an order for new parts, I just look at the list and add everything on it to my cart. This simple system ensures that I never get caught in the middle of a repair without a critical, common part.

The “Financial Audit” of My Parts Hoard: How Much is It Actually Worth?

The Dragon’s Hoard, Appraised

Once a year, I do a rough financial audit of my parts collection. I don’t count every resistor. I focus on the high-value items: the processors, the graphics cards, the rare ICs. I check their current market value on eBay. It’s always a shocking realization. My collection of “junk,” which I’ve cobbled together for almost nothing, often has a replacement or resale value of several thousand dollars. It’s a powerful reminder that there is immense financial value hiding in the things that other people consider to be e-waste.

How a Well-Organized Bench Turns a 3-Hour Job into a 30-Minute Job

The Efficiency of Order

A messy workbench is a slow workbench. I used to spend half my repair time just looking for the right screwdriver, the right screw, or the right part. After I invested a weekend in properly organizing my tools and components, my efficiency skyrocketed. When every tool has a home and every part is in a labeled drawer, I can move from one step of the repair to the next seamlessly. I’m no longer fighting my own chaos. The 30 minutes it now takes me to do a screen replacement is a testament to the power of organization.

The “A-ha!” Moment When You Find the Perfect, Obscure Part in Your Own Collection

The Joy of the Hoard

I was trying to fix a piece of equipment that needed a very specific, weird, right-angled power connector. I couldn’t find one anywhere online. I was about to give up. Then, I remembered a dusty old box of “miscellaneous power supplies” in my harvest pile. I dug through it, and at the very bottom, I found an old charger for a long-dead device that had the exact, perfect connector I needed. The triumphant “A-ha!” I shouted in my empty workshop was a moment of pure joy. My hoarding had been vindicated.

How to trade your surplus parts with other repairers online

The Digital Swap Meet

I had a surplus of a specific type of RAM, and I needed a processor that I didn’t have. I went to a dedicated hardware-swapping subreddit. I posted a “Have/Want” listing: “[H] 10 sticks of 4GB DDR3 Laptop RAM, [W] an Intel i5-3470 processor.” A few hours later, I got a message from another hobbyist across the country who needed the RAM and had the exact processor I was looking for. We each paid for our own shipping, and a week later, we had both completed our projects.

The most surprisingly useful part I ever salvaged

The Gift of the Microwave

The most surprisingly useful part I ever salvaged came from a broken microwave oven. It wasn’t the electronics; it was the powerful neodymium magnets from the magnetron tube. These curved, super-strong magnets are incredibly useful. I have one glued to the side of my toolbox that holds any loose screws or bits while I’m working. I use another as a “stud finder” by dragging it along the wall to find the drywall screws. They are an amazing, powerful component hidden inside a common piece of household junk.

Creating a “Disaster Recovery” kit of essential parts for common failures

The Emergency Room for Electronics

I have a small tackle box that I call my “Disaster Recovery” kit. It doesn’t have parts for specific projects; it has the universal parts needed to fix common failures. It contains an assortment of common fuse values, a few basic voltage regulators, a handful of common capacitors, some universal DC power jacks, and a variety of basic switches. This kit allows me to quickly triage and perform an emergency repair on almost any basic electronic device that comes across my bench, getting it stable before I order any specific parts.

Why you should always keep the parts you replace

The Library of the Broken

When I replace a faulty component on a circuit board, I never throw the old part away. I put it in a small bag and label it with the device it came from and the symptom it was causing (e.g., “HP Laptop – No Backlight Chip”). This “library of the broken” is an invaluable educational tool. It’s a physical collection of known failure points. If I encounter a similar problem in the future, I can reference my collection of broken parts to help me diagnose the issue much faster.

The satisfaction of a perfectly organized parts drawer

The Zen of the Tiny Bins

There is a unique and profound sense of calm that comes from opening a drawer on your parts cabinet and seeing perfect order. Every component is in its own labeled bin. Every resistor value is sorted. Every screw is in its rightful place. It is the physical manifestation of a clear and ordered mind. In a world of digital chaos and physical clutter, a perfectly organized parts drawer is a small, achievable island of zen. It is a space where you have complete control, and everything makes sense.