I Made My Old Phone “Waterproof” for a Kayaking Trip
The Ziploc is Not Enough
I wanted to use my old phone as a GPS for a kayaking trip but couldn’t afford a fancy waterproof case. A Ziploc bag is not a real solution. Instead, I bought a cheap, clear, waterproof “dry bag” designed for phones for ten dollars. It has a secure, triple-locking seal at the top. To be extra safe, I put a single silica gel desiccant pack inside the bag with the phone. This created a completely waterproof and humidity-controlled environment that allowed me to navigate safely without risking my device.
How to “Ruggedize” a Standard Laptop for a Dusty Workshop
The DIY Toughbook
I needed a laptop to view schematics in my dusty, chaotic woodshop, but a new Panasonic Toughbook costs thousands. I took my old, durable ThinkPad and ruggedized it myself. First, I covered all the unused ports with electrical tape to seal out dust. Then, I bought a cheap, form-fitting silicone keyboard cover to protect the internals from fine particles. Finally, I applied a rubberized “truck bed liner” spray paint to the outside of the case, giving it a tough, grippy, and scratch-resistant finish. It’s my DIY durable workshop machine.
I’m Using an Old PC in My Freezing Garage. Here’s How I Keep It Running
The Cold-Weather Computer
I have an old PC in my unheated garage that I use for workshop projects. In the winter, temperatures drop below freezing. While the PC runs, the main risk is from condensation when the humid air hits the cold components. My solution is simple: I never turn the computer off. I just let the screen go to sleep. The low-level heat generated by the power supply and processor is just enough to keep the inside of the case above the dew point, preventing any moisture from forming and keeping the components safe.
The “Potting” Technique: Encasing Electronics in Epoxy for Ultimate Protection
The Unbreakable Circuit
I built a custom lighting controller for my outdoor holiday display and needed it to be completely waterproof and shockproof. The solution was “potting.” I placed the finished circuit board inside a small project box. I then mixed up a batch of clear, slow-curing epoxy and poured it into the box, completely submerging the entire circuit board. After it cured, the electronics were sealed in a solid, transparent block of plastic. It’s now impervious to water, vibration, and physical impact—the ultimate in ruggedization.
How to Build a Weatherproof Outdoor Enclosure for an Old Router
Extending My Wi-Fi to the Yard
I wanted Wi-Fi in my backyard, so I decided to mount an old router outside. I needed a weatherproof enclosure. I went to a hardware store and bought a standard, grey, outdoor-rated electrical junction box for $15. I drilled a small hole in the bottom for the power and ethernet cables and used a waterproof cable gland to seal it. I mounted the router inside the box, which protects it from rain and sun. Now I have strong, reliable Wi-Fi all over my property.
The “Conformal Coating” Spray That Protects Circuit Boards from Moisture
The Invisible Raincoat for Your Electronics
I was building a small weather station to leave outside, and I was worried about the circuit board getting damaged by morning dew and humidity. The solution was a can of “silicone conformal coating” spray. After I finished soldering and testing the board, I took it outside and gave it two light coats of the spray. It creates a thin, transparent, flexible, and non-conductive silicone film over the entire board. This invisible layer protects all the delicate solder joints and components from moisture and corrosion.
I Built a “Solar-Powered” Weather Station from an Old Phone
The Off-Grid Data Collector
I wanted to put a remote weather station in a field with no access to power. I took an old Android phone, which already has built-in sensors for temperature, barometric pressure, and light. I installed an app that would log the sensor data continuously. For power, I connected the phone to a small, 5-watt solar panel and a portable USB power bank. The solar panel charges the power bank during the day, and the power bank keeps the phone running all night. It’s a completely self-sufficient, off-grid data collection device.
How to Prevent Your Screens from “Fogging Up” in High Humidity
The Anti-Fog Trick for Your Gear
I was on a photography trip in a tropical, high-humidity environment. Every time I brought my camera from my air-conditioned hotel room out into the warm, humid air, the lens would instantly fog up, making it useless for about 20 minutes. The solution was to acclimate my gear gradually. Before going out, I would put my camera in a sealed Ziploc bag. I would then take the sealed bag outside and let the camera slowly come up to the ambient temperature inside the bag, preventing any condensation from forming on the cold glass.
The Best “Old” Tech That Was Built Like a Tank (ThinkPad, Toughbook)
The Legends of Durability
If you need a device that can truly take a beating, you don’t buy new; you buy legendary. For laptops, the gold standard is an old Panasonic Toughbook, the kind police and military use, or a business-class Lenovo ThinkPad from the T-series. These machines were designed for harsh field use with magnesium alloy frames and shock-mounted hard drives. A used Toughbook from a decade ago will survive drops and spills that would instantly destroy a brand new, fragile ultrabook, and they can be found for a fraction of the cost.
I Used a Pelican Case to Build a “Go-Anywhere” Portable Power Station
The Indestructible Power Box
I needed a portable power source for camping trips that could withstand being thrown in the back of a truck. I started with a small, rugged Pelican case, famous for being waterproof and crush-proof. Inside, I mounted a small LiFePO4 battery and a power inverter. I installed waterproof switches, USB ports, and a 12-volt socket on the outside of the case, using marine-grade sealed connectors. The result is a completely self-contained, indestructible “power station” that can charge my devices no matter how harsh the environment.
How to Keep Sand Out of Your Camera on a Beach Vacation
The Greatest Enemy of a Good Lens
Sand is the ultimate enemy of a camera. The tiny, abrasive grains can get into the delicate focusing mechanism of a lens and destroy it. When I take my old DSLR to the beach, I follow strict rules. I never change lenses on the beach itself; I do it in the car. I keep the camera in a sealed bag when I’m not actively shooting. Most importantly, I use a clear, protective UV filter on the front of my lens. This five-dollar piece of glass acts as a sacrificial barrier, protecting the expensive lens from sand and salt spray.
The “Heated” Battery Box I Built for Using Drones in the Winter
The Warmth That Keeps You Flying
Lithium-ion batteries, like the ones in my drone, perform terribly in freezing weather. The voltage drops, and the flight time is cut in half. To fly my drone in the winter, I built a heated battery box. I took a small, insulated lunch box and lined it with a 12-volt heating pad designed for reptiles, powered by a small external battery. I keep my drone batteries in this heated box right up until the moment I fly. This keeps them at their optimal operating temperature, giving me full power and flight time even in the snow.
How to Fix Condensation Damage in an Electronic Device
The Battle Against the Creeping Corrosion
I left my old tablet in a cold car overnight. When I brought it inside, warm, humid air caused condensation to form inside the screen. I immediately turned it off. I then placed the tablet in a large, sealed plastic bag with several “desiccant” packs—the little silica gel packets that come with new shoes. These packets are designed to absorb moisture. I left the tablet in the sealed bag for three full days. The desiccant packs slowly pulled all the moisture out of the device, and it worked perfectly.
I’m Using an Old Tablet as a Boating GPS. Here’s How I Protected It
The Marine-Grade DIY Solution
A dedicated marine GPS chartplotter costs thousands. I use my old iPad. First, I bought a high-quality, fully waterproof case for it. To mount it, I used a sturdy RAM Mount, a system with rubber balls that absorbs the constant shock and vibration of the boat. Most importantly, I downloaded a special marine navigation app that allows me to save all the nautical charts for my area for offline use. This setup gives me a massive, easy-to-read navigation screen for a fraction of the cost of dedicated marine electronics.
The “Vibration Damping” Mounts I Made for Using Tech on My Motorcycle
Isolating Your Gear from the Shake
I wanted to mount my old phone on my motorcycle’s handlebars to use as a GPS. I knew the constant, high-frequency vibrations from the engine could destroy the delicate camera stabilization mechanism inside the phone. A standard, rigid mount was too risky. I built my own vibration-damping mount. I used a system of four small “wire rope isolators,” which look like tiny metal springs, between the handlebar clamp and the phone holder. These isolators absorb the worst of the vibrations, protecting my phone from shaking itself to death.
How to Choose the Right “IP” (Ingress Protection) Rating for Your Project
Decoding the Language of Durability
When I was building an outdoor electronics project, I needed to choose a waterproof enclosure. I learned to read the “IP” ratings. An IP rating has two numbers. The first number (1-6) rates its protection against solids, like dust. The second number (1-8) rates its protection against liquids. For my project, I chose a box with an IP67 rating. The “6” means it’s completely dust-tight, and the “7” means it can be fully submerged in water up to one meter deep. Understanding these ratings is key to choosing the right protection.
I Used Gaskets and Silicone Grease to Seal an Old Project Box
The Belt-and-Suspenders Approach to Waterproofing
I was putting a circuit board in a cheap plastic project box for outdoor use. The box claimed to be “weather-resistant,” but I didn’t trust it. To make it truly waterproof, I first applied a thin bead of silicone sealant to the inside lip of the lid. Then, before closing it, I applied a light coat of silicone grease to the gasket itself. This combination created a durable, flexible, and completely watertight seal that has kept my project safe through rain and snow.
The “Dessicant Packs” You Should Be Putting in All Your Gear Bags
The Humble Packet That Fights a Hidden Enemy
The little silica gel desiccant packets that come in new product boxes are not trash; they are treasure. I save every single one. I throw a few into my camera bag, my laptop case, and any box where I’m storing old electronics. Moisture is the silent killer of electronics, causing corrosion and short circuits. These little packets passively absorb any ambient humidity, creating a dry micro-environment that dramatically extends the life and reliability of my gear, especially when traveling in humid climates.
How to Make Your Own Waterproof Cable Glands
The Professional Seal for Your DIY Projects
I needed to run a cable into my weatherproof outdoor electronics box, and I needed the entry point to be perfectly sealed against rain. I didn’t have a proper “cable gland.” I made my own. I drilled a hole in the box slightly smaller than the cable’s diameter. I then took a tube of waterproof silicone sealant, filled the hole with it, and then pushed the cable through. The silicone formed a tight, flexible, and completely waterproof seal around the cable.
I Ran an Old PC in a “Mineral Oil” Bath for Silent, Dust-Proof Cooling
The Ultimate Extreme Environment
My workshop is incredibly dusty, and the fans on my PC were constantly getting clogged. I decided to build the ultimate dust-proof machine. I took an old PC and submerged the entire motherboard, processor, and graphics card in a fish tank filled with non-conductive mineral oil. The oil absorbs the heat directly from the components, requiring no fans at all. Because the system is completely submerged, it’s totally silent and impervious to dust, making it the perfect computer for a harsh, dirty environment.
The “Heat Sink” Upgrades for Using Tech in a Hot Attic
Passive Cooling for a Punishing Environment
I have a small server running in my attic, where summer temperatures can get dangerously high. The server’s small fans weren’t enough to keep it cool. Instead of adding more fans, which just blow hot air around, I upgraded its passive cooling. I bought larger, after-market heatsinks for the processor and other hot chips. These larger metal fins provide more surface area to dissipate heat into the air. This simple, silent upgrade has kept my server running stably through the hottest summer days.
How to Deal with Direct Sunlight Overheating Your Devices
The Power of a Simple Shade
I was using my old tablet as an outdoor music player for a BBQ. After about an hour in the direct sunlight, it shut down with an overheating warning. The black screen was absorbing a massive amount of solar energy. The solution was incredibly simple. I just propped up a piece of white cardboard to create a small shade for the tablet. Shielding it from the direct rays of the sun allowed it to cool down and continue working perfectly for the rest of the day.
I Used a “Sealed” Keyboard and Mouse for My Messy Workshop PC
The Spill-Proof, Dust-Proof Solution
I needed a keyboard and mouse for the PC in my greasy, dusty auto shop. A normal set would be destroyed in a week. I went on eBay and bought a used, industrial “sealed” keyboard and mouse for $30. These are designed for factories and hospitals. The keyboard is covered in a single sheet of silicone, making it completely waterproof and crumb-proof. The mouse is also sealed and has no moving parts. I can spill coffee on them, cover them in sawdust, and just rinse them off in the sink.
The Best Adhesives and Sealants for Outdoor Electronics
The Right Glue for the Job
For my outdoor electronic projects, I’ve learned that not all glues are created equal. Super glue is brittle and fails in the sun. Hot glue will melt on a hot day. The best sealant for creating a waterproof seal on a project box is a 100% silicone caulk. For bonding components that need to withstand vibration and temperature changes, my go-to is a two-part marine epoxy. It’s designed for boats, so it’s incredibly strong and completely waterproof. Choosing the right adhesive is critical for long-term durability.
How to Build a “Faraday Cage” to Protect Old Tech from an EMP (Theoretically)
The Tin Foil Hat for Your Gadgets
As a fun thought experiment, I decided to build a “Faraday cage” to protect some old, non-critical electronics from an electromagnetic pulse (EMP). The principle is to create a fully enclosed conductive shell. I took a sturdy cardboard box and lined the entire inside—all six sides—with multiple, overlapping layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil. I placed an old radio inside and sealed the box. In theory, this conductive cage would direct the energy from an EMP around the contents, keeping them safe.
I Made a DIY “Dry Box” for Storing Sensitive Electronics
The Low-Cost, Humidity-Controlled Vault
I live in a humid area and needed a safe place to store my old camera lenses to prevent fungus growth. A commercial “dry cabinet” costs hundreds of dollars. I made my own. I bought a large, clear, airtight plastic food storage container with a good rubber seal for $20. I then bought a small, rechargeable silica gel desiccant canister for $15. I put my lenses in the box with the canister. The canister absorbs all the moisture, and I can “recharge” it in the oven once a month.
The “Fan” Mod That Keeps My Outdoor Security Camera from Overheating
The Coolest Cam on the Block
My outdoor security camera, mounted under the eaves of my house, would overheat and shut down on hot, sunny summer afternoons. I opened up the camera’s housing and saw there was just enough space to add a tiny, 40mm computer fan. I drilled a few ventilation holes in the bottom of the housing and mounted the fan to blow hot air out. I wired it to the camera’s own low-voltage power input. This simple, active cooling solution has completely solved the overheating problem.
How to Prevent Corrosion on Circuit Boards in a Salt-Air Environment
The Boater’s Best Friend
I was helping a friend install some electronics on his boat. The salt air is incredibly corrosive and will destroy an unprotected circuit board in months. After we installed the device, we sprayed the entire circuit board with a special “corrosion inhibitor” spray, like Boeshield T-9. This leaves a thin, waxy, waterproof film on the surface. It’s a trick that boaters have used for years to protect their sensitive electronics from the harsh marine environment. It’s essential for any tech that will live near the ocean.
The “Sub-Zero” Stress Test: Which Old Tech Survives the Coldest?
The Winter Torture Test
Out of curiosity, I decided to see which of my old gadgets could survive a Minnesota winter. I left a few old phones, a tablet, and an old ThinkPad laptop in my unheated shed overnight when temperatures dropped to -10°F (-23°C). The phones and tablet with LCD screens were dead; the liquid crystals had frozen. But the old ThinkPad, with its robust design and simple components, booted up without a single complaint after I brought it inside to warm up. It was a testament to its legendary durability.
I Designed a 3D-Printed, Shock-Absorbing Case for My Old Phone
The Custom-Fit Cushion
I wanted the ultimate protective case for my old phone that I use for hiking. I couldn’t find one I liked, so I designed my own. I measured my phone and designed a two-part case in a 3D modeling program. The inner layer was printed with a soft, flexible TPU filament, which acts as a shock absorber. The outer layer was printed with a tough, rigid PETG plastic. The result is a custom-fit case that provides incredible drop protection, specifically tailored to my device.
How to Run Ethernet Cable Outdoors Safely
The Right Cable for the Job
I needed to run an internet connection to my detached garage. Running a standard indoor ethernet cable outside would be a disaster; the sun’s UV rays would destroy the plastic jacket in a year. The solution was to buy a special “direct burial” rated ethernet cable. This cable has a thick, tough, UV-resistant outer jacket and is often filled with a waterproof gel. I ran it inside a shallow PVC conduit for extra protection. This ensures a reliable, long-lasting connection that can withstand the elements.
The “Portable Air Conditioner” I Hacked Together for My Server Tent
The Styrofoam Swamp Cooler
I was running a small server for a weekend-long outdoor event, and the equipment was overheating inside a hot tent. I built a quick and dirty “swamp cooler.” I took a large styrofoam cooler, cut two holes in the lid, and mounted a small computer fan over one of them. I filled the cooler with ice. The fan would pull the warm air from the tent, pass it over the ice inside the cooler, and blow cool air out the other hole. It was a primitive but surprisingly effective portable air conditioner.
Why Military-Surplus Ammo Cans are the Best Project Boxes
The Toughest Box You Can Buy
For my rugged, outdoor electronics projects, I don’t use flimsy plastic project boxes. I use military-surplus steel ammo cans. They are incredibly tough, have a built-in carrying handle, and most importantly, they have a thick rubber gasket in the lid that makes them completely waterproof. They are also cheap and easy to find at surplus stores. They provide the perfect, pre-built, rugged enclosure for building anything from a portable power station to a remote sensor array.
How to Make Touchscreens Work with Gloves On
The Conductive Thread Trick
I use my old tablet in my cold garage workshop, but taking my gloves off to use the touchscreen was a constant annoyance. I found a simple, brilliant solution. I bought a small spool of “conductive thread” online. I took my favorite pair of work gloves and sewed a few simple stitches into the tip of the index finger with the conductive thread. This tiny bit of metal thread was enough to carry my body’s electrical charge to the screen. Now I can use the touchscreen perfectly without ever having to take my gloves off.
I Used an Old Cooler to Build a “Temperature-Stable” Enclosure
The Insulated Instrument Box
I was building a sensitive electronics project that needed to be kept at a stable temperature, even when used outdoors. I took an old, small personal drink cooler. The insulated walls were perfect for the job. I mounted my electronics inside. For cooling, I attached a small thermoelectric Peltier cooler to a heatsink on the outside of the cooler. This allowed me to create a self-contained, insulated, and actively temperature-controlled environment for my sensitive components.
The “Emergency” Tech Kit I Keep for Power Outages and Natural Disasters
The Blackout Box
I live in an area with frequent power outages. I have a dedicated “blackout box” with all my essential old tech. It contains a fully charged portable power bank, a small hand-crank radio that also has a flashlight and a USB port for phone charging, a set of walkie-talkies for short-range communication, and an old Kindle loaded with books for entertainment. This simple, self-sufficient kit ensures that I can stay informed, connected, and sane during any extended power outage.
How to Read a “Datasheet” to Find a Component’s Operating Temperature Range
The Manufacturer’s Rulebook
I was building a project that would be used in a hot car. I needed to make sure the components I chose could handle the heat. For every major component, like a voltage regulator, I looked up its “datasheet” online. This is the official technical document from the manufacturer. On the first page, it always lists the “Absolute Maximum Ratings,” including the operating temperature range. By checking the datasheet, I could ensure I was choosing “automotive-grade” components that were rated to work reliably up to 125°C.
The “Radiation Shielding” I Added to a Raspberry Pi for a High-Altitude Balloon
Protecting the Brain at the Edge of Space
My university’s science club was launching a high-altitude balloon, and I was in charge of the Raspberry Pi that controlled the camera and sensors. At high altitudes, there’s a higher level of cosmic radiation that can flip bits in a computer’s memory and cause crashes. To provide some basic shielding, I wrapped the entire Raspberry Pi in a few layers of lead tape, the kind used for balancing golf clubs. It’s a low-tech solution, but it helps to protect the sensitive electronics from the harsh environment at the edge of space.
How to Keep Insects and Spiders Out of Your Outdoor Electronics
The Unwanted Inhabitants
I have a small electronics box mounted to the side of my house. I opened it one day to find it had become a thriving metropolis for spiders and ants. They were crawling all over the circuit board. To prevent this, I first sealed all the cable entry points with silicone. Then, the secret weapon: I put a single mothball inside the enclosure. The smell is a powerful repellent for most insects and spiders, keeping the inside of my project box clean and free of unwanted, eight-legged inhabitants.
I Repaired a “Sun-Damaged” LCD Screen That Was Faded and Brittle
The Polarizer Replacement
I salvaged an old piece of equipment that had been left in the sun for years. The LCD screen was faded, and the image was barely visible. The problem was the top polarizing film on the screen, which had been destroyed by UV radiation. I carefully used a razor blade to peel off the old, brittle film. I then bought a new sheet of adhesive polarizing film online. I applied the new film, smoothing out the bubbles, and trimmed it to size. The screen was instantly restored to its original deep, dark contrast.
The “Peltier” Cooler: Using Thermoelectricity to Chill a Hot Component
The Solid-State Refrigerator
The main processor on my home server was running too hot, even with a large heatsink. I wanted to try a more advanced cooling solution. I used a “Peltier” or “thermoelectric” cooler (TEC). This is a solid-state device that gets very cold on one side and very hot on the other when you apply a voltage. I sandwiched the TEC between my CPU and a large heatsink. The cold side cooled the CPU, and the heatsink dissipated the heat from the hot side. It’s a powerful way to achieve sub-ambient cooling without a complex refrigeration system.
How to Vent an Enclosure While Keeping It Water-Resistant
Letting it Breathe, But Not Drown
My outdoor electronics enclosure needed to be ventilated to let heat escape, but I couldn’t just drill open holes, as rain would get in. The solution was to drill a few holes on the bottom of the enclosure and cover them with a weatherproof vent plug that has a breathable membrane. For the top, I used a small “breather drain” fitting that has a 90-degree bend, so air can escape, but rain can’t fall directly into it. This allows for passive air circulation while still keeping the internals safe and dry.
The “Battery” Chemistry That Works Best in Extreme Cold
The Winter Warrior
I was building a project that needed to work in the freezing Canadian winter. Standard Lithium-ion or LiPo batteries perform terribly in the cold. I did my research and chose to use Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries instead. This specific battery chemistry is much more stable and can deliver a consistent current at much lower temperatures than its more common cousins. While they are slightly heavier, their superior cold-weather performance was the only choice for my rugged, all-season project.
I’m Using an Old Laptop to Monitor the Temperature of My Greenhouse
The Digital Gardener
I have a small greenhouse and I needed a way to monitor the temperature and humidity to make sure my plants were safe. I took an old laptop and a cheap USB temperature and humidity sensor. I wrote a simple Python script that would read the data from the sensor every five minutes and log it to a text file. I also configured it to send me an email alert if the temperature ever went outside a safe range. That old laptop is now a dedicated, reliable environmental monitoring system for my garden.
The “Shake Test”: How I Ensure My Repairs Can Withstand Vibration
The Rattle That Reveals a Weakness
After I finish any repair or build that will be used in a car, on a boat, or in any high-vibration environment, I perform a simple “shake test.” I hold the device firmly and just shake it vigorously for about 30 seconds. This is a surprisingly effective way to find weaknesses. It will reveal a loose screw that you forgot to tighten, a poorly-soldered wire that will snap, or a component that isn’t properly secured. It’s better to discover a weakness on your workbench than in the field.
How to Build a Dust Filter for Any Electronic Device
The Pantyhose Pre-Filter
The fans on my workshop PC were constantly sucking in sawdust. I made a simple, effective dust filter for free. I took an old pair of pantyhose and cut out a square section. I stretched this piece of fine mesh over the fan intake on my PC case and secured it with a rubber band. The pantyhose material is a fantastic filter that catches the vast majority of dust particles while still allowing for good airflow. I just have to clean or replace the filter every few weeks.
The “Thermal Runaway” Phenomenon and How to Prevent It
The Vicious Cycle of Heat
“Thermal runaway” is a dangerous cycle. A component gets hot, which increases its electrical resistance. This increased resistance makes it generate even more heat, which increases the resistance further, and so on, until the component destroys itself. This is especially risky in outdoor enclosures exposed to the sun. The key to prevention is a thermal safety switch. I use a simple, bi-metallic thermal switch in my high-power projects. If the internal temperature exceeds a safe limit, the switch physically cuts the power to the circuit, breaking the cycle.
My “Storm-Chasing” Tech Kit and How I Keep It Safe
Rugged Tech for a Turbulent Hobby
As a storm-chaser, my gear has to be tough. My primary device is a refurbished Panasonic Toughbook laptop, mounted on a vibration-damped stand in my truck. All my sensitive electronics are stored in a waterproof Pelican case. I use a power inverter connected to the car’s battery to keep everything charged. And for data, I use a cellular hotspot with an external, high-gain antenna mounted on the roof to get a signal even in remote areas. Reliability is everything when your safety depends on getting accurate, real-time weather data.
The Toughest Repair I Ever Did Was on a Boat in the Middle of the Ocean
The High-Seas Solder
I was on a sailing trip when the boat’s critical GPS navigation system died. We were miles from shore. We opened it up and found a single, corroded solder joint on the power input. The problem was, how do you solder on a constantly rocking boat? My friend steered the boat directly into the waves to minimize the side-to-side roll. I used a small, butane-powered soldering iron and timed my movements with the rhythm of the waves. It was the most intense and high-stakes repair of my life, but we got it done.
The “Built, Not Bought” Pride of a Device That Survives Anything You Throw at It
The Indestructible Creation
There is a special kind of pride that comes from using a device that you have personally ruggedized. I have a portable music player I built inside a steel ammo can. It’s been dropped, rained on, and covered in mud. It has scratches and dents, and I love every one of them. Each scar is a story. Knowing that I built it, that I chose the components for their durability, and that I can fix any part of it myself, gives me a sense of ownership and connection that you can never get from a fragile, store-bought gadget.